Buckwheat's PCT Photos: Oregon
Oregon border to Three Sisters
At first Oregon is nothing special — just a continuation of northern California. However, soon the land grows more plateau-like and noticeably moister, feeding increasing numbers of mosquitos. The section around Shelter Cove tends to be the worst. Volcano-shaped peaks soon come into view, and before you know it you're at Crater Lake. Don't miss the buffet at Mazama Village (not at the rim!). After that the PCT passes over thickly forested, mosquito-infested plateaus before rising up into the Three Sisters area, where the scenery changes dramatically. Throughout Oregon you'll need to have planned your resupplies carefully. Towns with grocery stores are far off trail, and most thru-hikers find it better to mail themselves packages of food to small outposts along the way. Many buy-as-you-go thru-hikers spend a day in Ashland packing and mailing off provisions.
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Rolling landscape near the border.
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The Ashland public library welcomes thru-hikers!
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Coming out of Ashland, the PCT passes through some drier areas.
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The trees in some places are enormous, but you don't realize it until you get to the road and can see their full height.
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Trail registers are often filled with humor.
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Crossing one of many ancient lava fields. It's amazing how they've built trails through here.
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Looking north towards the tantalizingly dense peaks of the central Oregon Cascades.
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Stewart Falls is a possible detour on the way to Mazama Village and Crater Lake.
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This is the healthy stuff you guys should really be eating, not all those cheap sugars and trans fats (exhibit courtesy of Billy Goat).
Note the buckwheat groats (you gotta soak them wild groats).
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Sunrise over Crater Lake and Wizard Island. There are some good camping spots on the rim.
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Mountains through the haze of forest fire smoke. |
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Last view of Crater Lake before the PCT drops down off the rim.
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Back in lodgepole pine country. No water here for many miles.
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The first high peak of the Oregon Cascades. We are back among the mountain hemlocks.
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Most definitely not a happy camper. I am hot in the clothes, but I feel I have no choice. And there is no respite, nowhere to flee from the mosquitos.
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This is where the buggers breed.
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Each successive mountain group is a bit higher than the previous, and the scenery a bit wilder.
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One of countless lakes. Sometimes these are the only water sources for significant stretches.
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The PCT passes through a number of burnt forests. |
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Another lake. I think I may have taken a dip in this one.
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Three Sisters to Cascade Locks
Finally we are in the high Cascades — a land of towering glaciated peaks that punctuate the thickly forested landscape. By now the mosquitos are probably fading fast and it's growing cooler. The scenery is dramatic and inspiring nearly every day, and more and more backpackers and day hikers are out to experience it, too. Near Mt. Hood the trail drops to even more verdant lower elevations, and you'll have the much recommended option of taking the Eagle Creek route to Cascade Locks. This section has two all-you-can-eat venues — the Seventh Day Adventist youth camp and Timberline Lodge on Mt. Hood. Miss them and you'll be kicking yourself (which can make walking difficult). Cascade Locks is the major resupply option for buy-as-you-go thru-hikers, who often buy weeks of food here and mail out packages to postal outposts in Washington.
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The trail to the South Sister leads you out of mosquito land into alpine territory.
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Here grow fields of lupine and other wildflowers. |
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Obsidian Falls, named for the obsidian rocks that lie around here.
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Looking over reddish volcanic rock moraines towards the North Sister.
Unfortunately, the trail doesn't give you any close looks at the peaks or their largest glaciers.
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In places the trail is enveloped in lupine.
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Morning scene with one of the Sisters in the background. |
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Here the PCT passes through an enormous lava flow
where almost nothing grows. You can see how the lava flow split and surrounded the hill in the center.
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I found this sign quite funny. Note: turn right here for a cheap all-you-can-eat cafeteria.
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Sunset enhanced by forest fire dust.
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Another burnt forest. Fog and mist are rolling in. |
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On the approach to Mt. Jefferson I was hit with 30 hours of nonstop cold drizzle. Keep this possibility in mind as you plan your gear for the Cascades.
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Olallie Lake in the mist.
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Magnificent Mt. Jefferson. Unfortunately, I never got to see it up close because of fog and rain.
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Next mountain on the menu: Mt. Hood.
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Timberline Lodge (hint: $15 buffet).
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Mt. Hood is the highest peak in Oregon and has skiing all through the summer on one of the glaciers.
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Mt. Hood is just a huge pile of volcanic dust, really. Erosion here takes place very rapidly, and many slopes waste away too rapidly to ever support plant growth.
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View through a notch to the west.
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The PCT passes around the southern, western, and northern flanks
of Mt. Hood, offering magnificent views from many different angles.
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From Mt. Hood the PCT abruptly drops down to lower elevations. It's practically a rain forest down here.
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Rich low-elevation forest.
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The Eagle Creek detour takes you into a world of water.
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In places the trail is cut out of the cliff. Not for the faint of heart (though handrails have been installed in the most treacherous spots).
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Passing behind the waterfall...
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...and coming out the other side.
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Cascade Locks welcomes sailors arriving on freight ships on the Columbia River.
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